MTB adventure in the Ajarian highlands

Introduction

About Adjara

MTB adventure in Adjara – that’s what I’ve called this blog. For many, Adjara is just the Black Sea coast with beaches, casinos, and beach vacations. But if you travel deeper into the interior, you’ll discover a completely different world: wild mountains, remote villages, and perfect conditions for mountain bike adventures.

This story recounts my five-day solo MTB tour through the highlands of Adjara – a region in the Lesser Caucasus that is still considered an insider tip even in Georgia.

Adjara – more than just coastline

The Autonomous Republic of Adjara, with its capital Batumi, is located in southwestern Georgia, directly on the Black Sea and on the border with Turkey. In addition to the coastline, two national parks, dense forests, alpine meadows, and traditional mountain villages characterize the landscape.

It is little known that Adjara is ideal for outdoor activities: hiking, horse riding – and especially mountain biking. Old trails, little traffic, and spectacular views make the region a real MTB paradise.

Why I was traveling alone

As a passionate cyclist and German-speaking tour guide in Georgia, I had long wanted to explore this mountainous region by mountain bike. During the coronavirus pandemic, I finally had the time I needed—but no one wanted to accompany me. The region seemed too unknown, too remote, too unsafe.

So I decided to set off alone. It was a decision that made this trip even more intense and personal.

Planning & preparation

The biggest challenge was planning. Accommodation in remote mountain villages is hard to find online. Thanks to personal contacts on the ground, I was able to organize simple guesthouses.

Route planning was also not trivial: maps show paths, but reveal nothing about their condition. Especially at high altitudes, it was unclear whether there would be settlements, shopping facilities, or even people. Conversations with locals and local authorities helped to fill in the most important gaps in information.

My itinerary and route

The MTB adventure in Adjara lasted five days and was almost a circular route:

Day 1: Guria – Gomi Mountain
Day 2: Gomi Mountain – Shuakhevi
Day 3: Shuakhevi – Khulo (Skhalta Valley)
Day 4: Khulo – Chiruchi mountain meadows
Day 5: Descent back to Shuakhevi

Itinerary

Day 1. Mount Gomi – Arrival in the fog and magical sunset

The first day immediately presented me with a real challenge. The climb up Mount Gomi was steep, not yet paved at the time, and particularly exhausting with heavy luggage. Kilometer after kilometer, I fought my way to the top, often in thick fog, without knowing whether there would even be a view waiting for me at the top.

Shortly before reaching the resort, everything suddenly changed. The fog lifted, the light softened, and a wide, hilly mountain landscape opened up before me. Just in time to experience the famous sunset for which Mount Gomi is known. The sun sank behind the mountains in warm colors – a moment that made me forget all my efforts.

That same evening, I encountered Georgian hospitality for the first time, for which the country is famous. Without asking many questions, I was offered free accommodation. We ate, drank, and talked together – a perfect start to this MTB adventure.

Day 2. On the alpine pastures – summer life like something from another era

The long descent from Mount Gomi down to Shuakhewi was one of the most beautiful stretches of the entire trip. But it wasn’t just the landscape that impressed me, it was above all the way of life of the people.

In Adjara, there is still an old tradition today: in summer, entire families move up to the high alpine pastures. Several generations live there together in simple wooden huts, looking after their cows and making butter, cheese, and other dairy products – all by hand.

It was particularly touching to watch the children. Outdoors all day, in the fresh mountain air, playing and laughing – far away from traffic and screens. These encounters gave me the feeling of being immersed in another time.

Day 3. Skhalta Valley – Bird’s nest villages and wooden mosques

On the third day of my MTB adventure in Adjara, the route took me through the Skhalta Valley, one of the most characteristic regions of Adjara. The villages here nestle against steep mountain slopes and look like bird’s nests from a distance. Most of the houses are built of wood, many of them over a hundred years old.

Each house is surrounded by small gardens and fields that glow in different colors depending on the crops grown. This mosaic of green, yellow, and brown tones gives the landscape a special vibrancy.

The wooden mosques of the region are also striking. They reflect the history of Adjara, which was under Ottoman rule for almost 300 years. Some of these mosques are now listed buildings and are among the country’s architectural gems.

Day 4. Border region with Turkey – tension and traces of the Cold War

The fourth day was the most uncertain of the entire trip. I headed toward the Turkish border without knowing exactly what to expect. The road was rocky and steep, the landscape wild and largely undeveloped.

Suddenly, I found myself in a military-controlled border area. It was only when I got there that I learned that you actually need a special permit for this section. Shortly afterwards, I was stopped by the border police.

After a check, a few questions, and a radio call, I was finally allowed to continue – a moment full of tension that will remain in my memory for a long time to come.

Another unexpected highlight were the remnants from the Cold War era. Since the border between the Soviet Union and NATO once ran here, the Soviet army built a line of defense with underground bunkers. Many of them still exist today and can be visited. For me, as a traveler interested in history, it was a fascinating insight into a little-known past.

Day 5. Departure and return to Shuakhevi

The last day was quiet and without any major surprises. A pleasant, approximately three-hour descent took me back to Shuakhevi. There, I stowed my bike in a minibus and drove to Batumi. At the bus station, I changed to Ozurgeti, and in the late afternoon, I was back in my car on my way back to Svaneti.

Summary

This five-day MTB adventure in Adjara through the Adjara highlands began as a personal adventure and quickly became one of the most impressive trips I have experienced in Georgia. The combination of unspoiled nature, remote mountain villages, and warm hospitality makes this region unique.

Based on this experience, we now offer this route as a guided bike tour in Adjara. The stages are carefully planned, accommodations are selected, and the trip is accompanied by a German-speaking guide. This allows you to experience the highlands of Adjara safely, authentically, and intensively on two wheels – far away from the well-known routes.